How do the people and culture in EA differ from that of the other areas in Africa? Dress, food, traditions… – Hoghie

Lindsay Clark: East Africa consists of roughly Uganda, Kenya and Tanzania. Though English is oddly and often the national language of these places (the language that most schools are taught in), tribal languages dominate conversation amongst family and friends. In Uganda, most people also speak Lugandan and other languages from the former kingdoms of the area. In Kenya and Tanzania, they speak Swahili (and I still don’t know what the difference is between that and Kiswahili).

The East Africans dress conservatively, sometimes in Western clothes and sometimes with more traditional textiles. Women often wrap their heads with these fabrics, too. They eat some staple sustenance like ugali (flour and water boiled to make a doughy base), matoke (mashed, steamed plantains), and other items that can often be found around Africa in various forms.  Many East Africans are some form of Christian, Muslim, or believe in more locally grown religious traditions. As we all know, Africa is massive, and I’ve only been fortunate enough to scratch into East, a bit of Central and South Africa. From my limited knowledge, that’s what sets them apart or relates them to the rest of their continent.

Chris Danner: Kenya and Tanzania were my first introduction to Africa, so I don’t have any reference points to compare their cultures. The Maasai culture though was incredibly interesting from their traditional dress to their initiation rituals. It was a fascinating experience.

Do people of East Africa view you as Americans as unwanted or are they as welcoming as can be expected? – spencergrigg

LC: Before I traveled much at all, I was afraid wherever I went of identifying myself as an American. Generally people understand that there’s a difference between an individual and that individual’s government or country stereotype. I have yet to be discriminated for being from the US of A, except for being shouted at in Paris (by a drunken and seemingly homeless man). With the election of Barack Obama as President, East Africans love us since his father hailed from Kisumu, Kenya. I was actually asked many times while in Kenya if I was interested in creating another Obama since I was an American lady. A little vulgar…but hilarious. I declined, but man are these countries friendly to anyone, even ‘Mericans. As a rule though, I always try to be a good diplomat so that I don’t ruin the American tourist image.

CD: The people from East Africa pretty much love President Obama unconditionally and many will tell you that he is their cousin. If you are American, they will love you simply because of Obama and will be very welcoming. So long as you are polite, respectful, and kind to people you will always be welcomed, regardless of whether or not you’re American.

How crazy is it to be that close to these dangerous animals and do you have any safari tips for aspired travelers? – mebc42

LC: The safari guides and drivers are so good at making you feel safe in these wild environments that you often haven’t a worry when man-eating animals come close. However, I had a moment where my heart stopped pre-taking the male lion profile photo. The vehicles are safe to be in, but you are not allowed to (and shouldn’t ever feel inclined to) step out of the vehicle for a quick pee or a photo opportunity (unless your driver says so). It’s true though…those animals have the capacity to klobber us even in those Land Cruisers. But they don’t, and they never have in the parks we visited.

CD: Everyone is used to seeing lions attacking something or savagely killing some gazelle on the Discovery Channel, but most of the time when you’re on safari the lions are doing very little. They walk close to the vehicles but do not seem to really notice you. You are not seen as prey so you have nothing to fear really, just don’t leave the van.

And safari tips?

LC:

• Always keep your tent closed completely, even if you’re stepping out for a few seconds
• Make lots of noise so snakes will avoid you when walking into the bush for a “toilet” break
• Ear plugs and melatonin are awesome helpers for sleeping in the bush…sometimes the noises outside cause you to be shifty-eyed and worrisome, even though you’re safe
• It’s dusty. Bring exfoliating scrub and a head scarf.

CD: The one thing I would say is to research all the different types of tours and make sure you bring a traveling pillow. The tour we went on is not hard-core camping so you don’t need to pack like it is. Research the accommodations and pack so you’ll be comfortable because most of your mornings will start very early.

Here it is, your Swahili guide for East Africa.

The basics:

Jambo – Hello
Mambo – Hey, sup, how goes it, ya good? (I didn’t really understand this one…haha)
Poa – Good, sup, hey, all’s good. (Again…don’t know for sure but they use this all the time.)
Habari gani? – How are you?
Nzuri – Fine
Hakuna Matata – No Worries
Asante sana – Thanks a Lot
Tafadhali – Please
Karibu – Welcome
Ndio – Yes
Hapana – No
Sawasawa – OK

Some good phrases for conversation:

Twende – Let’s Go
Niko Tayari – I’m Ready
Unasemaji? – What did you say?
Nimefurahi – I’m Happy
Kila siko – Every Day
Ulikuwa wapi? – Where were you?
Nilikuliza – I Asked You
Taratibu – Take it Slow
Kwaheri – Goodbye
Tutaonana tena – See You Again

In case you want to dig deeper into the language:

Mimi – I
Wewe – You
Mme – He
Mke – She
Msichana – Girl
Mwanaume – Boy
Mtoto – Baby
Baba – Father
Dada – Sister
Kaka – Brother
Mama – Mother
Mjomba – Uncle

Numbers, yo, in case you want to haggle hardcore:

Moja – 1
Mbili – 2
Tatu – 3
Nne – 4
Tano – 5
Sita – 6
Saba – 7
Nane – 8
Tisa – 9
Kumi – 10
Kumi na moja – 11
Ishirini – 20
Hamsini – 50
Mia moja – 100
Mia mbili – 200
Elfu – 1000

Good terms to know while on safari:

Pole, Pole – Slowly, Slowly (used all the time to tell you ‘take your time’)
Wanyama – Wild Animals
Tembo – Elephant
Twiga – Giraffe
Simba – Lion
Pumba – Warthog
Kidogo – Small
Kubwa – Big

When you’re jones’ing for some grub:

Bia – Beer
Nataka pombe? – Can I have a beer?
Matoke – Mashed Plantains
Sukari – Sugar
Kahawa – Coffee
Nyama choma – Spit-Grilled Meat

Some crowd Pleasers (and some odd ones…why did they teach me these?):

Maisha marefu – Cheers (to long life)
Mikono juu! – Hands up!
Makofi – Clap your hands
Wacha mchezo – Stop playing
Hapana piga mama – Do not beat your wife
Wacha ujinga – Stop your nonsense
Mimi si mamako – I am not your mom

I tried one more time. Nairobi at night. This time with the help of two GAP guides, one being my future leader across Tanzania and the game reserves. They escorted me back to Ranalo Foods to educate this rusty mind on eating with your hands in East Africa.

Grabbing ugali (corn flour and water boiled down to a squishy solid) by the fingertips, they molded a wad to fit the width of their hands, ending in a spoon-like shape near the thumb. Then, they went for the meat or greens, pinching the food together to the ugali and taking it all in with a large, meaty bite. It took me a few attempts to look as thought I eat like this all the time. Of course, I still got some stares and was probably looking quite silly, but having those guys accompany me gave me the confidence I, for some reason, lacked the night before.

And then we went out for drinks. People were pumped to get on the dance floor, but most of the time, it was a floor full of gyrating men.  The guys explained most men are pretty afraid of girls because the majority of the women surrounding us were quite obviously “ladies of the night.” They danced with an eye behind them, seeing who was watching and hoping to entice someone.

Hanging Out in Arusha

The bathroom was for refueling, to smoke and primp among the puddles. Standing in my simple, modest attire, the ladies and I had a moment of pausing to observe the other. All faucets were covered with bags, so a massive tank of water took up the majority of the open space and a small bucket bobbled in hopes someone would want to be clean. A woman in front of me couldn’t stop moving to the music outside and gyrated by the toilet stalls. I loved it. I wanted to join her. The other woman next to me, one of the few ladies that wasn’t working that night, handed me some toilet paper. I was much obliged.

The curtains by the dance floor parted on a band led by a great Congolese singer and immediately the place exploded with energy. The music pulsed to a heartbeat or a quick breath, to the natural bounce of the joints, all about the hips, shoulders, and head, which usually looked down to see how the rest of the bod’ was doing.

At one point, a man collapsed “dead” on floor in a game to get money. He rose after the efforts of a few very dedicated and drunken men (giving money and pleading to the gods) and came alive…alive enough to strip down to basically a full spandex onesie and about twelve pairs of colorful or slinky underwear. Once he got down to nothing but a G-string over his black shiny get-up, he proceeded to do a headstand fit with impressive hip gyrations.  A couple audience members were quite enthusiastic to have me contribute to his medical school fees or whatever he was dancing for, but my boys had my back and gave me a backbone in the vulnerable situation.

The dancing king of the night told me to get up and dance. I mimicked the popular moves and fit in nicely. Then he asked me to be at home (that’s nice) and feel free (oh ok…) to make another Obama if I felt like it (since I’m an American woman…in Kenya…wait, WHAT?). It was the second time someone said this to me in two days. At first it struck me as hilarious. Then I realized with the inauguration of our new president, the entire country of Kenya had a fresh new joke for the tourists that they all found as comical as they did the first time.

Bottom line: Get a local perspective on Nairobi nightlife, and you’ll walk away pleased…and possibly swervin’.