The biggest and best surprise of the entire trip came in Edinburgh. We arrived at the beginning of an event that I am definitely returning to next August. The Fringe.

The Fringe Festival is the world’s largest art festival…by a long shot. And this is art in the best and most diverse sense of the world. There are hundreds of visual art shows, plays, comedy shows, musical performances, and lectures as well as being the world’s best convention of street performers.

There are solo-dramatic performances, hilarious stand-up shows, even classes on burlesque (I didn’t make it to that one, though). For a little cred you might respect, Flight of the Conchords was discovered there and Rhys Darby (Murray, the manager, from the show) performed this year.

Parts of the city are transformed into massive hubs for the festival, town squares are converted in beer gardens with astro-turf and large alley ways branch off into venues and bars. The nightlife stays open till 5 a.m. during the Fringe and since the first shows start at 8 a.m. and the last shows start at 3 a.m., you could theoretically experience the Fringe for almost 24 hours a day.

The venues are small and the prices are totally reasonable too, I saw four shows (all amazing) in places with no more than fifty people and didn’t pay more than 10 pounds a ticket. If you get a pass for the Fringe you can see all the shows you want for 5 pounds each. It was an exhilarating start to my time in Scotland. The motto for our Haggis tour was “Wild & Sexy” and the Fringe was just that. I have to go back and do the Fringe for a full week next year

Photo Credit: www.theedinburghblog.co .uk on Flickr

Stepping outside after dropping my dirty and travel-worn bags, I noticed the cobblestones, the old building fronts, the charm that draws you in immediately without the need for double-decker bus tours or guided walks following a man holding a yellow umbrella. Edinburgh is a city that makes you yearn not to be a tourist. All I wanted to do was find some grad student pub or old bookstore, sit in a wee corner of a medieval building or on a less-crowded city sidewalk and soak the old and the new in through my skin and eyes.

High Street in Edinburgh, Scotland

Edinburgh isn’t stuck in the past. It seems the residents are in sync with 21st century life while loving the saturation of rich culture and history that surrounds them in this city. She reminded me of Florence, not in style or appearance but through the tangible beauty of sitting amidst the memories of diverse and exciting centuries.

I had the added pleasure of having a friend in town, a pal named Mary from my high school and college days who had lived in Edinburgh for about two years altogether. She had a passion for the Scottish and especially the fantastic culture to be found down each cobbled street. And Mary took me straight to the ambiance I was thirsting for: a bar by the local university, filled with young minds and cheap, local draft.

Within about 60 minutes of landing in Scotland, I fell for the country. It could be the quarter of my ancestry screaming out for its Scottish roots, but I don’t think you have to be a Scotsman by blood to realize the joys of the plaid land. When every building speaks of a bygone era and every local seems to reek of humor, you feel satisfied with your destination…

I highly doubt Edinburgh in the off-season lacks the vigor of its summer days, but we came at the absolute best time of year. August brings the Fringe, the world’s largest arts festival, which means the city doubles in size, every nook is filled with artisan wares, and the energy of Edinburgh reaches all-time highs causing anyone to feel inspired and want to grab a mic or a paint brush. I felt the own artist in me jumping around inside, hoping to express something amidst a sea of purging souls. Part of me now feels there’s no other place on Earth to be in August than here.

I think my friend, as well as the fabulous Rachel Rudwall, had it figured out: Edinburgh is a great place to study abroad. And if I’m lucky, I’ll return to truly experience the grandeur of the Fringe Festival in August, as well as spend some quality one-on-one time with a city that now makes my top ten list: Edinburgh.

Dubbed “The Woman Who Shut Up Simon Cowell” by ABC News, Susan Boyle has hitched a ride on a bullet train to internet stardom after her hit performances on “Britain’s Got Talent.”

The video of her singing “I Dreamed a Dream” from Les Misérables while shocking the heck of the usually blunt Cowell, is now ranked as one of the top five most watched viral videos of all time.

The Scottish lass hails from the “second city” of Scotland – Edinburgh. The city may be behind Glasgow in terms of population, but holds its own as the seat of the Scottish Parliament and playing host to the world’s largest performing arts festival, Edinburgh Festival Fringe.

Things to Do in Edinburgh

A Performer at Edinburgh Fringe

Make sure to plan your trip to be there during the Edinburgh Festival Fringe. It is held each year as an alternative to the Edinburgh International Festival and averages over 6,000 performances each day of the 23-day festival. Originally organized by students at the local University, you know this is the place to be. Largely made up of lesser-known performers, a few big names tend to show up like comedian Ricky Gervais and the now well-known Boyle.

Lucky for you, Edinburgh Castle, standing on the land of an extinct volcano, and Edinburgh Acting School, where Boyle caught the performance bug, are in close proximity. Hit up the Castle first to do a little exploring and then go see a performance over at the Acting School before heading over to the White Hart Inn, rumored to be the oldest pub in the area.

Make sure to check out The Vaults and Arthur’s Seat as well. Just stay away from the footie hooligans if you decide to take in a Hibs or a Hearts match.

Where to Stay in Edinburgh

The place to be in Edinburgh for young people is the Castle Rock Hostel. It is located right next to the giant Castle mentioned earlier in the post and oozes personality with a mix of antique charm and new school features like internet access and an 8-foot screen for movies. Indie Travel Podcast even included it in their top 10 hostels around the world.

If you prefer a hotel to a hostel, consider the Cairn Hotel. It is a traditional bed and breakfast style hotel that serves up a quintessential Scottish breakfast every morning. Maybe it’s time to find out what black pudding is.

Folk Music Sounds Better with a Beer

How to Get There

Unless you like really long boat rides, you’re going to have to fly to Scotland. You can fly directly into Edinburgh for under $500* from New York if you travel before June 1. If you prefer to fly into Glasgow, pick up a BritRail pass so you can not only get to Edinburgh, but take a few trips to other destinations in Scotland, England and Wales.

Where to Eat and Drink

If you really want a taste of Scotland, check out one of the four Howie’s locations in Edinburgh. They only use free range chickens and eggs and all of their bread, cheese and fish come from local Scottish producers. Plus, the food is a great value if you go for lunch.

The Scots are known for their whiskey and one of the best places to get a good selection (35+ on offer) is Sandy Bell’s. Just don’t ask for any haggis, because they don’t serve any food. Make sure to go at night, as the place is known for its live folk music every night of the week.

The Monster Mash gives you, “top nosh at half the cost,” according to their Web site. With a menu full of traditional British and Scottish foods including sausages, pies and tatties, you’ll get yourself good and ready for a night at the pubs.

Fringe Photo Credit: Shadowgate on Flickr
Sandy Bell’s Photo Credit: Irish Philadelphia Photo Essays on Flickr
* Fare quote accurate as of May 6, 2009. View any rules and regulations at STATravel.com and check on specific dates.